Sierra Trip Reports

Date: Saturday, May 12, 2012

Location: Middle Cathedral Rock, Yosemite Valley

Climbers: Cuauh, Jon & Nick

Photos: Jon & Nick (as noted)

Synopsis: With a great weather forecast and climbing season back in full swing, Cuauh, Jon and I headed to Yosemite Valley for a quick day trip to climb the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral Rock (5.10c) in Yosemite Valley. Included in Fifty Classic Climbs of North America by Steve Roper, the East Buttress is an extremely popular route and actually offers two variations with some chances to pass folks. The “50 Classic” Variation includes a 5.10a traverse that bypasses the 5.10c bolt ladder.

Cuauh had climbed this route before and wanted to try his land at leading the 5.10c bolt section and 5.9 roof above, so we went with that variation.

We got a relatively early start and after brewing up some breakfast headed over to the pull out for Middle Cathedral. On the way, we were treated to a great sunrise on the Cathedral Spires across El Captain Meadow. Photo: Nick

The red line on the photo below approximately indicates the East Buttress route. Photo: Nick

Even standing at the base of the climb, one can imagine why it is such a classic and popular route. The entire day we were treated to amazing views of El Captain directly across the Valley. Photo: Nick

When we arrived at the base of the route, there were already two groups above us on the route, so we had to wait a bit to get started. The entire day was essentially quite a bit of waiting at belay ledges for parties to progress up the route. While it was not the most efficient climbing, it was still a great day as (i) the views were spectacular, (ii) the weather was perfect and (iii) I was climbing with great company. So I won’t bog down this Trip Report with the details on all of the delays and appropriate areas to pass.

Here is a zoom shot looking at part of the Nose route on El Captain. As Jon notes, “From about middle left and working your way up: Dolt Tower, El Cap Tower, Texas Flake, Boot Flake (location of the king swing).” Photo: Jon

As I write this Trip Report, I am actually half way done with a 9-day Wilderness First Responder course with WMI. Therefore, I am in a bit of a rush and going to quote Jon’s captions on a number of his shots. So this is actually a co-written Trip Report.

We decided to break up the route into blocks of pitches for leading. Jon took the first 4 pitches, Cuauh took the middle 3 pitches and I took the last 3-4 pitches. Here, Cuauh follows Jon up “the 5.6 perfect hand crack near the top of pitch 3.” Photo: Jon

Jon chilling at the belay for the start of pitch 4. Photo: Nick (Jon’s camera)

As Jon notes, “Pitch 4 has a couple nice sections of 5.7 lieback climbing. I’m doing my best to avoid showing how strenuous these moves can be.” Photo: Cuauh (Jon’s camera)

“Cuauh beginning his block of leads with the 5.10c crux of pitch 5. One of the Cathedral spires in the background. The bolts are close enough to make pulling though this section a trivial affair if you don’t want to test out your face climbing ability. The 5.9 roof above will regain your attention quickly.” – Jon Photos: Jon

Here I am belaying Cuauh as he works up pitch 5, with El Cap looming in the distance. Photo: Jon

Cuauh continuing to work up pitch 5, including the tricky 5.9 roof. Photos: Jon

“Nick clearly stoked, waiting on the party above.” – Jon Photo: Jon

Another zoomed in shot on El Captain. As Jon states, “Could pass as abstract art. In addition to the features mentioned in the last zoom shot, here you can see the Great Roof, Pacific Ocean Wall, North America Wall (can you SEE it??), Atlantic Ocean Wall. If you look very closely you can see a climber on the top of Texas Flake. Yep. Looks like a dark body with yellow helmet.” Photo: Jon

“A heart of stone? A stone cold heart? Here you can see the climber advancing up the bolt ladder between Texas Flake and the Boot Flake.” – Jon Photo: Jon

Here, Jon follows Cuauh up the fifth pitch with one of the Cathedral spires in the distance. Photo: Nick

Cuauh leading out on the traversing sixth pitch to link back to the 50 Crowded Variation (appropriately named). Photo: Nick

Jon and Nick hanging out at the fifth belay as Cuauh leads on above. Photos: Nick

Jon belaying Cuauh with the Captain towering across the Valley. Trust me, the view does not get old. Photo: Nick

Jon following up this spectacular route. Photo: Nick

Another crowded belay made for good conversations in a great setting. Photo: Nick

As Jon notes, “Nick on lead. Pitch 8. Amazing convenient holds for this entire crack system. An awesome pitch that left us all in grinning.” Photo: Jon

Cuauh following up on the exposed eighth pitch, super pumped. Photos: Jon

Nick getting ready to lead on the ninth pitch. Photo: Jon

Nick on the lead on the ninth pitch – due to some crowding on the belay above, I took a little off-route variation that offered some really great crack climbing. Photo: Jon

The final pitch offered a quick easy climb/walk-off to the top of the Cat Walk over to the abyss between Middle and Higher Cathedral Spire. Photo: Jon

At the top, a four shot panorama I stitched together showing the Valley floor all the way to the rim of El Captain. Photo: Nick

“View to the east from the top. Cloud’s Rest is the high point in the background slightly to the right. The Sentinel is in the mid ground right. Below Cloud’s Rest and to the left you can just see part of the Royal Arches above which is North dome. I think you can pick out Lost Arrow spire just above the first “step” of the feature in midground left.” – Jon Photo: Jon

On the hike to the rap rings, Jon standing with one of the Cathedral Spires off in the distance. Photo: Nick

Higher Cathedral Rock from the traverse to the descent. Photo: Jon

Several rappels down the abyss between the Cathedral Spires. Photo: Jon

Although it was a long day due to the crowding (we had wanted to climb Higher Cathedral Rock after but did not have enough day left as a result of a much longer time spent on the East Buttress), we were all pumped on the route. Photo: Nick