Sierra Trip Reports

Date: Saturday, December 24, 2011

Location: Cascade Falls

Climbers: Jon, Rachel, Tony & Nick

Photos: Nick (unless otherwise noted)

Synopsis: First, let me say that wanted to get this up much sooner to offer some good beta on current Tahoe ice conditions, but a hectic schedule around the holidays prevented that. So unfortunately I can’t attest to whether this is representative of the current conditions at Cascade Falls (e.g., there has been a rain event and general warming spell as of late).

Having said that, although Tahoe (and pretty much all of California, Utah, Wyoming and Colorado) has received little to no snow, December proved to be a very cold month. Consistent cold temperatures and lack of snow make for good ice conditions in Tahoe (as fickle as they can be).

While climbing up at 90-Foot Wall with Brandon the week prior, we spotted Cascade Falls from the road and it looked very thick. After some more research, I got some good beta on conditions, so Jon, Rachel, Tony and I decided to head and check it out.

While it was cold, things are certainly not white. Emerald Bay “Chutes” are more of rock scrambles at this point!

But fortunately, Cascade Falls were really fat and nice and frozen.

Perfect blue skies on the easy approach in, although the ice flow itself is fortunately largely protected from the sun and remains in the shade throughout the day.

At arrival, there was one soloist working one of the flows:

We rapped down to set up a couple of other lines on the right flow. Jon wrapping down.

As the day later progressed, other parties showed up, but everyone was really chill and courteous about spreading out ropes and watching each other for ice fall.

The Cascade/Tahoe interchange.

Rachel rapping down to join Jon.

Jon got the first lead on the middle of the right flow and set up a top rope with a 70M and 60M tied together.

Rachel following Jon and cleaning the screws.

The tools of the trade.

Tony showed up and rapped down to join us.

And he promptly headed up the top rope that Jon had set up with his lead.

Meanwhile, another party was on the left flow. We ended up heading to that later in the day.

After getting a warm-up on the main flow, I felt like getting a lead in as this is pretty easy water ice and a good place to ramp up the skill set. So we pulled a rope and I lead up the middle flow. Jon was able to climb to the right of me on the top rope, so he got some good action shots of the lead.

Nick leading up the middle flow. Photo: Jon

Great, easy ice. A lot of fun and I am clearly having a great Christmas Eve. Photo: Jon

Putting in a screw. Photo: Jon

Nearing the top. Photo: Jon

Nothing like ice climbing while having everything else lush green!

After the main flow, Jon and I rapped back down. Rachel, Jon and I headed over to the left flow and I had a relatively wet lead as it was getting late in the day. Jon was nice to give me the lead has he had climbed it the day prior.

What a great day of climbing with easy access. That night, spent Christmas Eve with Sarah’s family and the stars were in full force! Even with all the light pollution from the house and surrounding houses – which added a cool light painting effect on the trees.

P.S. – we need some snow!