Sierra Trip Reports

Date: Sunday, October 23, 2011

Location: Lover’s Leap

Climbers: Alex & Nick

Photos: Alex & Nick (as noted)

Synopsis: With the snow of the early October 6th storm long faded into memory and recent warming temps, I knew Sunday would make for a good day trip to the Leap. After many suggestions by myself and others, Alex has recently taken up climbing, with his first foray into outdoor climbing at Indian Springs and Donner Summit earlier in August.

With the stable weather and Alex fired out to get out of the climbing gym and back outdoors, I knew a Leap trip was in order. And with Corrugation Corner (5.7) and Bear’s Reach (5.7) on the agenda, I would dare to say that is about as good as it gets for a first trip to the leap for Alex! A nice welcoming to the world of exposure…

We rolled out very early with the goal of getting on these popular, classic routes early. Unfortunately on HWY 50 we saw a very large black bear laying dead on the road, having been hit by vehicle over night. A sad sight, and people really need to slow down on 50 and the other mountain highways.

We got to the base of the Leap around 8 AM, with temps still hovering around 40 degrees. It would gradually warm up as the sun rose and clouds burnt off.

On the approach, I am pointing out the Main Wall to Alex. Photo: Alex

The ultra-classic Corrugation Corner was first on the list, as it was clear we would be the first on the route! Enough cannot be said about this route – it is steep, exposed, protects well and has varied and interesting climbing. As noted in the SuperTopo South Lake Tahoe Climbing Guide:

From a distance, Corrugation Corner deceivingly appears a low-angle weakness in the awesomely steep Main Wall. In reality, this is one of the steepest climbs in this guide and one of the steepest granite 5.7’s you will find anywhere. Instead of following the main corner, the route often pushed you out on a horrendously exposed arête. It is here that you will appreciate that “5.7” may accurately describe the technical difficulty of the moves, however, psychologically the moves feel like 5.10. Royal Robbins had this to say about the climb, “… the Corner still rates first place because of its magnificence as a corner: both from a distance and close up it is an elegant piece of rock architecture.”

Nick standing at the base of the first pitch of Corrugation Corner. In this picture, you can basically follow both the first and second pitches of the route up the corner to the top of the photo. Traveler’s Buttress is just to the left along the skyline. Photo: Alex

Nick starting the lead on the first pitch, a nice stemming route up to a comfortable belay ledge. Photo: Alex

Alex looking down after about ½ way up the first pitch –or as he was thinking at the time, “Only 500 more feet to go!” Photo: Alex

In retrospect, I can’t think of a better outdoor route to take a new outdoor climber to than Corrugation Corner – it just offers it all!

Alex’s job for the day – cleaning gear. As an aside, Alex lugged a DSLR up this climb, which I found quite amusing. Just the LX-3 for me (In reality, pushing aside the weight, I would be afraid to drop/break a DSLR on a climb given the fact I have dropped my LX-3 off of two climbs). Photo: Alex

Alex turning the corner, coming to the first belay ledge. Photo: Nick

Looking up, pumped for pitch 2 – the goods! Photo: Alex

The exposure on the second pitch is so awesome for a 5.7 route. Looking down after traversing out to the arête on pitch 2, with Alex down at the first belay ledge. Photo: Nick

Did I mention we were the only party on the route the entire time? Sweet stuff. Looking down at Alex from the second belay ledge. Photo: Nick

Well, it’s not my DSLR, but I can still get fancy with the LX-3 😉 Photo: Nick

Alex working up the second pitch – I could tell he was pumped to be out of the gym. Photos: Nick

The third pitch starts with a chimney – then you exit out onto an arête and finish up with some awesome exposure up to nearly the apex of the Main Wall. Looking down from the top, catching Alex coming out of the chimney. Photo: Nick

Alex finishing the route off. We gotta get him a climbing helmet 😉 Photo: Nick

Fortunately, Alex’s hard work on lugging the DLSR up the route pays off, and I eat my works and bask in the glory of superior TR photos from Alex. Photos: Alex

Here I am, clearly trying to look as tough as possible 😉 I guess that would work if I was coming off of the Nose in a Day or something…Photo: Alex

The colors were starting to show on the descent hike – interestingly I look pissed here, but I was not. Not sure what is going on, actually. Photo: Alex

We headed over to the East Wall to Bear’s Reach, a nice 5.7 I have climbed in the past. Once again, no one on the route, as there were only other parties on The Line and Scimitar.

Nick heading up the first pitch of Bear’s Reach. Photo: Alex

You can barely make out the party over on Scimitar. Photo: Nick

Alex following up the second pitch of Bear’s Reach. Photo: Nick

On the hike out, we caught the great light on the Leap and Alex pulled out the DSLR again for some great shots of the Main Wall, with Traveler’s Buttress and Corrugation Corner off on the distance (although you can technically only see the third pitch of Corrugation Corner, as the first two are behind the “corner” of the Buttress). Photo: Alex

Great light on the Main Wall. Photo: Alex

Looking back at the East Wall. Can you spot the party up high on Bear’s Reach? Hint: A tiny dot with a red helmet. Photo: Alex

A great day all in all!