Sierra Trip Reports

Dates: Saturday, July 30 – Sunday, July 31, 2011

Locations: Indian Springs & Donner Summit

Climbers: Alex, Colin & Nick

Photos: Alex & Nick (as accredited) – although virtually 99.9% of the shots in this TR are Alex’s

Synopsis: Ultimately, this was a great weekend of moderate climbing with some good buddies. I honestly haven’t gotten out much this summer due to a pretty hectic schedule of work, travel, moving and other commitments. Everything always balances out, however – so I was just excited to be able to get out over this weekend. Other than a great day at the Leap climbing Surrealistic Pillar over Fourth of July weekend, this would only be by second climbing outing this summer.

I was really pumped as well given that (i) this was Alex’s first time outdoor rock climbing (as he only recently began climbing in the gym) and (ii) I had not climbed with Colin in over a year due to his skiing injury.

INDIAN SPRINGS – SATURDAY, JULY 30

Alex and I didn’t head up to Colfax to pick up Colin until around 3:30 in the afternoon on Saturday. So given the late afternoon start, we scrambled to think of some easy access, moderate climbing. Colin had picked up the new North Lake Tahoe guidebook, and we decided to head to Indian Springs (en route from Colfax to Truckee).

After the short drive to Indian Springs, we checked out some decent options. Photo: Alex

Everyone was super pumped – we envisioned some easy warm-ups on a short top-rope face to get Alex accustomed to outdoor rock, and then head over to some longer single-pitch trade routes.

Colin, looking excited to spend the warm, late afternoon in the Indian Springs area. Photo: Alex

We ended up being the only climbers in the area – as the routes are generally pretty short here as compared to the larger routes at the Leap in South Lake Tahoe and the abundance of quality cragging around Donner Lake. Still, the rock was excellent quality and fun.

We set up a couple of short top ropes on a face right next to the road – offering some climbs in the 5.7 to 5.9 range. It was a cool to see Alex transition into outdoor crack and face climbing (a whole new experience to him from the color-coded world of gym climbing).

Nick heading up in the late-afternoon shade. Photo: Alex

The top-rope area was great as it offered some relief from the heat – an intentional choice given the day-time temps in the upper 80s. Photo: Alex

After each climbing about six alternate top-rope routes (they were short), we consulted the guide book and headed over to one of the longer single-pitch climbs – a nice 5.7 180’ft route offering mostly crack climbing.

As we headed over, the sun was starting to set, so we ensured we had headlaps for the inevitable rap down in the dark. Photo: Alex

Alex brought a tripod for his large DSLR camera with a remote sensor – which was sweet as he could capture a different perspective of the route and climbing.

Here, Nick and Colin are at the base of the route gearing up for Nick to lead as the sun starts to set. The route follows a nice hand-crack moving straight up from Nick and Colin. Photo: Alex

Nick leading the lower part of the route – a nice flake that you lie back on. Photo: Alex

Much higher on the route, Nick leading a fun hand crack that took good gear. Photo: Alex

For a sense of scale, here is Colin following the upper part just below where the last photo was taken. Colin and Alex had some fun climbing in the twilight! Photo: Alex

Alex’s remote sensor was pretty sweet as he got some awesome exposed shots of us rappelling in the dark. Here we are setting up the rappel. Photo: Alex

Nick rapping down. Photo: Alex

DONNER SUMMIT – SUNDAY, JULY 31

Around mid-day on Sunday, we headed up to Donner Summit to try and get a longer route in and give Alex a taste of some multi-pitch climbing. We figured would check out School House Rock to see how crowded it was, and if so, perhaps head down to Truckee River Canyon.

After taking a quick look, we saw that Junior High Crack, a nice multi-pitch 5.7, was open. I have climbed this route in the past and knew that it is a fun route with some variations and a great view.

The weather was perfect on Sunday – racking up in the parking lot of old ASI. Photo: Alex

Nick and Colin heading up to the base of the route. The route begins by traversing under the large roof, and then heading up the vertical crack in the far right of the photo. Photo: Alex

Gearing up, with Donner Lake in the background. Photo: Alex

Nick starting to lead the first pitch – we ultimately climbed this in two pitches and walked-off the top. Photo: Alex

Nick up on the first belay ledge – after the vertical crack section, there is some low angle rock to scramble up (as seen here). Photo: Alex

Colin following at the top of the first pitch, after coming over the steeper section to the low angle portion. Photo: Alex

Pitch 2 has a couple of variations, but the vertical crack system going directly above the belay is a lot of fun – here Nick leads up. Photo: Alex

Alex following up near the top of the second belay – just hanging out for the photo. Photo: Nick

After topping out, we chilled out and Alex broke up a couple of IPAs that he had lugged up the route in a backpack! Colin enjoying the fruits of Alex’s labor. Photo: Alex

Alex was super pumped on the climb – a great weekend for a first outdoor rock experience. Photo: Colin (with Alex’s camera)

First I just chilled to short the junk show of gear. Photo: Alex

Then took a nice seat over in Nature’s sofa with a view! Photo: Alex

A great weekend all around! Photo: Nick (with Alex’s camera)