Sierra Trip Reports

Dates: Tuesday, May 10 – Friday, May 13, 2011

Skiers: Jon & Nick

Photos: Jon & Nick (as noted)

Synopsis: Over a four day period in between weather windows, Jon and I completed the classic High Sierra ski tour, the Evolution Loop. In addition to the classic tour plan, we added in side trips to Mt. Goddard and the North couloirs on Mt. Lamarck. The Evolution sub-range of the Eastern Sierra is considered by many to be one of the most beautiful areas of the entire Sierra. During our four days on the tour, I would consider this belief to stand true.

Note that this TR is four pages long, with each page dedicated to each day.

DAY 1 – LAKE SABRINA TO ECHO LAKE

The first day of the classic approach to the Evolution Loop begins at Lake Sabrina at 9,218 ft and travels approximately six miles to Echo Lake at 11,602 ft for the first night’s camp.

Leading up to our tour, Jon and I were a little concerned about the weather. This spring, the weather in the High Sierra has been very inconsistent, to say the least. Short periods of high pressure have generally been book-ended by brief periods of low pressure, cold temps and snow. Heading into the four day tour, the weekend prior had brought a low pressure system with light winds, but the chance for up to 6 inches of new snow. The forecast then called for generally stable weather during the week with cool temps (for Spring) and a possible second system coming in the following weekend.

After stopping at MoMart on Monday night and discussing conditions with a friend who had skied Esha Peak that day, Jon and I headed into the tour with conservative minds to check out conditions up by Echo Lake before heading deeper into the backcountry. We wanted to be sure little snow feel and conditions were stable before climbing the steep Echo Col on Day 2.

The road to Lake Sabrina is entirely plowed and open to the lake. We arrived at Lake Sabrina with parting clouds as the brief weather window started to push out the exiting system. Photo: Nick

The route around Lake Sabrina brings you to a steep climb up to several drainages that lead to Echo Lake. After the initial climb, we were greeted by our initial glimpses of the High Sierra. Photo: Nick

Interestingly, the forecast for the next four days called for pretty cold temps (highs in the low 30s), but we never found that to be the case. Day-time highs all appeared to be in the 40s. Coupled with the strong sun and clear skis, traveling conditions were warm but great.

Nick chilling while eating a snack, taking in the amazing views. Photo: Jon

Skin-track stoke as Jon heads up. Jon and I generally traded breaking trail pretty evenly during the entire tour. Photo: Nick

Jon working towards Echo Lake, with Mount Haeckle way off in the distance. Photo: Nick

Working up over Topsy Turvy Lake towards Clyde Spires. Photo: Nick

Nick with Mount Haeckle in the far distance. Photo: Jon

The final push towards Echo Lake. Photo: Nick

Our camp at the end of Day 1 at Echo Lake Echo Col moves up beyond the lake and up around the corner around Clyde Spires. Photo: Nick

DAY 2 – ECHO LAKE TO WANDA LAKE

On Day 2, we climbed over Echo Col (12,540 ft) and headed around five and a half miles to Wanda Lake. In the morning, we headed up Echo Col after assessing snow conditions to see how much snow the area received over the weekend. We did not find any evidence of instability and the area only appeared to receive a couple of inches of snow without wind. It appeared the brunt of the weekend storm impacted more North of our tour area.

The early morning conditions made for quick boot packing up to Echo Col. Here, Nick heads up to the pass. Photo: Jon

Jon follows up to Echo Col. Photo: Nick

Echo Col is not a traditional ski descent as it does not completely fill in with snow. Here, I down-climbed to check the conditions and see if we could get beyond the crux. Photo: Jon

We found a good route through the constriction and down-climbed with our packs. Photo: Jon

After putting on our skis, we had a nice 2,000 ft descent before beginning our climb towards Muir Pass.

Jon heads down. Photos: Nick

Nick enjoying the down on the apron below Echo Col. Photo: Jon

As we continued down, we were treated to awesome views of the Black Divide (on looker’s left) and Mt. Solomons in the far distance. Photo: Nick

Jon pushing along the next bench above the second half of the descent, with Echo Col high behind him. Photo: Nick

Jon continues on. Photo: Nick

Nick following down at the bottom of the descent. Photo: Jon

As we began our climb up to Muir Pass, the Black Divide towered overhead. And Nick pushes along. Photos: Jon

On our way up, we saw the only other people out in the region the entire trip. A group of two was making some great tracks down Mount Solomons. (and later Black Giant) Photo: Nick

We continued our way up to Muir Pass and the John Muir Hut built by the Sierra Club for emergency shelter for hikers on the John Muir Trail. Photo: Nick

After a quick rest outside the Muir Hut, we headed down some low angle terrain to our camp at Wanda Lake. Jon heading down. Photo: Nick

The terrain around Wanda Lake was surreal. Photo: Jon

Nick digging out our mid tent in the distance. Photo: Jon

Jon checking out the clouds at our camp on Day 2. Photo: Nick

Good times at dinner! Photo: Jon

The sunset on night 2 was amazing. Photo: Nick

DAY 3 – WANDA LAKE TO MOUNT GODDARD TO THE EVOLUTION LAKES AND DARWIN BENCH

Day 3 was a pretty big day. We woke up at 5 AM with the intention of leaving most of our heavy gear at camp and heading with day packs out into the Ionian Basin to summit and ski Mount Goddard. We would then return to camp, pack up the rest of our gear and head up the Evolution Lakes basin to the Darwin Bench. We ended up climbing around 4,500 ft, descending 5,000 ft and traveling 13 miles.

First light crossing Wanda Lake. Photo: Nick

Nick heading up our first climb. Photo: Jon

Jon checking out a cirque. Mount Goddard is the high peak with the snowfield off in the far distance. To access it from this point, we climbed over Wanda Pass and then kept a high traverse above Ionian Basin. You can also climb the chute I seem to be staring at, although I cannot confirm whether this went through top to bottom this year. Photo: Nick

Jon heading up, with the Evolution Basin far off below. The long chain of ridge ending with the flat peak is Mt. Darwin. Photo: Nick

Nick following up towards Wanda Pass, our gateway into the Ionian Basin. Photo: Jon

At the top of Wanda Pass, we were treated to amazing views of Ionian Basin – considered to be some of the most remote terrain in the Sierra. The tall peak on the left is Charybdis and across to the right is The Three Sisters and Scylia.Photo: Nick

Nick and Jon discussing some travel options. Rather than dropping all the way into Ionian Basin, we traversed one at a time across the SE facing slopes towards Mount Goddard to maintain our elevation. Photo: Jon

The Three Sisters are quite simply gnarly! Photo: Jon

On the way to Mount Goddard, we saw this peak off in the distance which we dubbed “Bizzaro Mount Conness.” The similarity was striking. We subsequently found out it is Finger Peak (12,404 ft.). Photo: Jon

After the crest, we headed down on a brief descent before our climb up to the summit of Mount Goddard. Photo: Nick

Jon breaking trail along the ridgeline towards Mount Goddard’s summit. Photo: Nick

Nick following the climb. Photo: Jon

Jon on the final boot pack to the top of Mount Goddard (13,566 ft). Photo: Nick

Nick on the final push. Photo: Jon

Jon on the summit. Photo: Nick

USGS summit marker. Photo: Nick

Nick posing down on the summit of Mount Goddard. Photo: Jon

The snow on Goddard was amazing from top to bottom on close to a 2,000 ft descent. Here, Jon drops in from the summit. Photos: Nick

Jon ripping down the middle face. Photo: Nick

Nick enjoying the descent. Photo: Jon

Jon pushing down on the final descent. Photo: Nick

The snow was awesome – as my grin clearly evidences. Photo: Jon

Looking back up the face, Nick following Jon. Photos: Jon & Nick, respectively

After a climb back up, we checked the snow conditions on the SE face to see how much warming they received. Comfortable with the snow, we traversed over one at a time back to Wanda Saddle to avoid having to drop into the Ionian Basin. Photo: Nick

On the front side of Wanda Saddle, we had a great descent right down to our camp. Jon heading down at high speed. Photo: Nick

Nick pushing down towards Wanda Lake. Photos: Jon

Skiing right back to camp. Photo: Jon

At this point, it was only mid-day so we decided to push camp up to the Darwin Bench. That would put us in striking distance for Mount Darwin or Mount Lamarck the following day.

Jon skating along Wanda Lake. Photo: Nick

Looking back up our last descent. Wanda Pass is on looker’s left of this unnamed peak. Our tracks work down the face and through the rocky chute at the bottom. Photo: Nick

The backside of Mount Darwin and the high crest above the chain of Evolution Lakes. The John Muir Trail travels through here in the summer. Simply amazing scenery. Photo: Nick

Jon looking out to Mount Huxley.

Nick pushing along. Photo: Jon

Somewhat duplicative shots, but this was quite simply an amazing area. Photo: Nick

Nick with Mount Spencer and Mount Huxley in the distance. Photo: Jon

The last push to our camp in the Evolution Basin just below Darwin Bench. Photo: Nick

We dug out the mid and just had a nice dinner outside in warm temps and amazing views. Photos: Nick

It was our first night finally with totally clear skies. The stars were in full force. Photo: Nick

After the moon dropped away. Photo: Nick

The Milky Way was amazing! Photo: Nick

This was my favorite night with an awesome camp. Photo: Nick

DAY 4 – DARWIN BENCH TO MOUNT LAMARCK NORTH COULOIR TO NORTH LAKE

Once again, we woke up early with the goal to push towards Darwin and make the decision on whether to ski the North Couloir/Face on Darwin or push along to Lamarck.

The early morning snow made for each booting up the Darwin Bench. Photo: Jon

Jon working through Darwin Canyon. Photo: Nick

Mount Mendel, with the steep alpine climbs of the Mendel Couloirs. Photos: Nick & Jon, respectively

The North Face of Mount Darwin on the left, with the North Couloir cutting across to the upper left. Photo: Jon

We arrived at the turn towards Darwin around 10:30 AM. While skiing Darwin was a possible option, we realized that if we ascended and skied it, we would not be back down until mid-afternoon. In order to move outside of Darwin Canyon, you need to climb to Lamarck Col, a steep, rock-filled South face. We decided that climbing Lamarck Col that late in the afternoon would not be safe, so an ascent of Darwin would require us to camp another night at Darwin bench.

Unfortunately, the last weather forecast we had received on Monday night called for some weather to move in that night. While the forecast was quite dated and the skies were relatively clear, the winds were picking up somewhat and we debated the unknown of the weather.

Ultimately, we decided to move on to Lamarck to ski the North Couloir and move to our car waiting at North Lake. We didn’t want to chance the weather. This decision proved to be good in about two hours!

Jon moving up Lamarck Col while the snow was still firm for skinning. Photo: Nick

Amazing views from the top of Lamarck Col. Photo: Jon

At the top of Lamarck Col, we heard a very loud thunder clap. And then another. Looking back North beyond Darwin, huge thunderheads were developing and heading South along the Owen Valley and Sierra Crest. We quickly realized that (i) weather was moving in and (ii) the snow was warming up.

Jon broke trail across the East Bowl of Lamarck. Upon following, the skin track kept breaking out due to warming and I slid down about 20 feet at one point. I just decided to forgo the summit and get to the rock band as soon as possible.

This resulted in Jon and I skiing two separate couloirs from Lamarck. We decided I would head to the more NE Couloir and watch Jon descend the true North Couloir from the summit. When he was at the bottom, he would then watch me ski the NE Couloir.

Jon looking down the North Couloir on Mount Lamarck. Photo: Jon

Nick coming down the bottom portion of the NE Couloir. There is additional terrain about the rollover on the top. The snow was great, as long as you avoided the wet slide debris from the prior days. It was easily avoidable, though. Photo: Jon

Looking back at Mount Lamarck. The North Couloir Jon skied is just right of the summit, and the NE Couloir that Nick descended is to the left of the summit, via the left branch of the on the “Y” split up top. Photo: Nick

As the skies continued to darken, we skied all the way down to the North Lake campground. Nick even managing to send some windlip with a heavy pack! Massive backcountry air – haha! Photo: Jon

No Eastside trip would be complete without the following key exit factors:

1. Snow bridge river crossings. Photo: Nick

2. Dry river crossings with ski pole vaults. Photo: Jon

3. Walking paved roads back to the car. Photo: Jon

As a note, the road up to North Lake is still gated as there is some snow in spots, as well as huge boulders from rock fall that will have to be removed.

Upon nearing the car, we quickly realized how our decision to bail on Darwin really paid off. The weather was in fact moving in, and had we gone for Darwin, we would have needed to bail and also forgo skiing the North Couloirs on Lamarck. I guess the message was to trust your gut and go with the prudent decision.

Nearing the car, the thunderheads were dumping rain down in the valley. Photo: Nick

And the upper peaks were completely socked in. Photo: Jon

We made it to the car, packed up and started the engine just as the first rain drop fell. Ultimately, an amazing trip with great weather, unreal terrain, a great partner and safe fun skiing!