Sierra Trip Reports

Locations: High Sierra of Yosemite National Park – Tenaya Peak, W. Ridge of Mt. Conness and the approaches in between (including Ragged Peak & Young Lakes)

Dates: Saturday, September 25 – Sunday, September 26, 2010

Climbers: Nick & Brandon

Photos: Nick & Brandon (as noted)

Weather: Both Saturday and Sunday were bluebird skies, with 0% chance of precipitation. During the day, weather was in the mid-60s on both days, with nighttime lows in the mid-30s.

Synopsis: As the week began to pass, I could sense the stars aligning and a sequence of events shaping up that would miraculously enable me to climb two ultra-classic, High Sierra alpine routes of varying difficulties (in both exposure, technical climbing and approach commitment: the Northwest Buttress of Tenaya Peak and the West Ridge of Mt. Conness.

Note: Part II – West Ridge of Mt. Conness (VonTrap Style!)

SATURDAY – NORTHWEST BUTTRESS OF TENAYA PEAK (10,280 FT.)

On Friday night, Brandon and I drove up from the Bay Area and camped just outside Yosemite National Park around Hardin Flat. Our goal was to climb the Northwest Buttress of Tenaya Peak early the next day, with Brandon returning to the Bay Area and me hiking in to Upper Young Lake to meet Jon for an attempt on the West Ridge of Mt. Conness of Sunday.

Waking up around 5:30 AM, Brandon and I broke down camp, ate a quick breakfast and make the drive up to the Tuolumne Meadows area.

Tenaya Peak, seen below during the early hours of Saturday, is a truly classic, moderate alpine climb going up the Northwest Buttress (which essentially follows the diagonal arête in this picture from left to right). Photo: Brandon

The climb is only rated 5.4 and generally starts out on very low angle slab, moderately increasing in steepness towards the top, with several variations of exit (including a very fun 5.7 vertical crack to finish).

Brandon and I got to the trailhead parking lot around 7:15 and slowly geared up, only seeing one additional car. Temps were still relatively cold in the morning on the approach. Here, Brandon takes in the silence of early-morning Yosemite, with the Northwest Buttress of Tenaya in the distance. Photo: Nick

The approach is extremely easy, with some moderate uphill switchbacks to the base of the climb. Per the SuperTopo Guidebook, avoid the dark, wet slabs at the bottom and go around to the left. Here, I am working my way up, with the correct base of the route above the dark slabs coming into view. Photo: Brandon

We got to the base of the route, but there was one other party there before us that had driven straight from Modesto at 3 AM. Unfortunately, one member was getting over a food bug and was not feeling well, so they had to head back down. We ended up running into them at the base after the climb, and he appeared to be feeling better and had an otherwise nice day by Tenaya Lake.

We started the route at the absolute lowest point of rock, just above the dark slabs. I believe this makes for around a 1,500 ft. vertical route. The lower slabs are extremely low angle, and we just walked up them with approach shoes, un-roped. This made for quick time as we soloed the first 1/3rd of the route. As an aside, we saw later parties walk much higher up a grass-filled drainage, essentially bypassing the first 1/3rd of the route. While the bottom is not necessarily exciting, we found it more enjoyable to climb the entire route including the lower “walk-up” portions.

Nick working up the lower, un-roped slabs. Photo: Brandon

Cool view of Pywiack Dome down below from the lower slabs. I climbed Zee Tree (5.7) with my buddy Brandon on that about a month ago. Zee Tree TR. Photo: Brandon

Once we got about 1/3rd of the way up the route, we decided to rope up and simul-climb. We essentially simul-climbed the remainder of the route in two long “simul-pitches” to just below the 5.7 crack direct finish. If you were to pitch-out the entire route, I think it comes to around 15-pitches.

Cool shot of Nick leading the 1st “simul-pitch.” Photo: Brandon

I am continuing to work my way further up the route, taking in the well-earned sunlight. Photo: Brandon

As we continued higher up the route, the sunlight filled the greater Tuolumne area, and treated Brandon and I to amazing views of Tenaya Lake. Photo: Brandon

As well as Tuolumne domes and the High Sierra off in the distance. Photo: Nick (Brandon’s camera)

About 2/3rds of the way up the route, there is a monster belay ledge where Brandon and I changed simul-leads (including the standard portrait shots of Brandon and me, respectively).

Brandon took over the leading. Here he is running out the beginning of the pitch, flipping the rope over a nagging flake. Photo: Nick (Brandon’s camera)

As you climb higher, the exposure gets great. In lieu of the standard 4th class traverse off, we headed higher-up for the 5.7 crack finish. At the turn, the exposure starts to show itself. Photo: Nick (Brandon’s camera)

Nick coming over to the belay just below the 5.7 direct finish. Photo: Brandon

I believe there are three alternative finishes: (i) the standard 4th class left traverse, (ii) a 5.4 “loose” finish to the right and (iii) the 5.7 vertical crack. I lead the 5.7 vertical crack, which was a great short pitch. I think the 5.7 rating is somewhat strong, as the inner crack really has some monster holds. The rock is, however, pretty grainy and sharp – so be forewarned.

Here I am leading out the 5.7 direct finish, with about 1,500 ft. of exposure below 🙂 Photo: Brandon

At the belay ledge just above the 5.7 finish, looking down and showing the exposure (as well as another exposure shot from the summit). Photos: Nick

At the top of Tenaya Peak, you are treated to just amazing views in all directions of Tuolumne Meadows, Mt. Conness and the High Sierra, Cloud’s Rest and Half Dome, Matthes Crest and beyond.

Nick and Brandon, respectively, enjoying the views down the face of Tenaya Peak.

Looking east towards the ultra-classic, Mathes Crest. Photo: Brandon

Looking South towards Cloud’s Rest and Half Dome. I am planning on taking my girlfriend Sarah up to Cloud’s Rest for her first trip to Yosemite next weekend. Photo: Brandon

Looking North towards Mt. Conness. Photo: Brandon

Brandon at the top of Tenaya Peak, with a tiny Pywiack Dome below. Photo: Nick (Brandon’s camera)

Nick and Brandon looking towards the Valley, respectively.

Some beta on the descent. After researching the descent, we avoided the “steep slabs” referenced in the SuperTopo guide and went further down towards lower-angle, easy to navigate slabs. Just walk South, staying high on the ridge for a long ways down. You will wrap around the S.W. ledges of Tenaya and Tenaya Lake will come into view. When you are looking across Tenaya Lake about ½ and Stanley Pleasure Dome is just across the Lake and slightly to the right, start heading straight down towards the Lake. After cutting around a small cliff band, you get on wide open, very low angle slabs. They are not dirty and no rock. Easy to just walk straight down. When you hit the forest line, just continue straight down through the steep forest to the Lake. There is a trail running on the edge of the Lake which will take you right back to the parking lot. An easy and safe descent.

Here is a view of the low angle slabs in relation to Tenaya itself. Photo: Brandon

One last look up at the route from Tenaya Lake Beach. Photo: Brandon

Click here for the rest of the day and hike up to Upper Young Lake, with Sunday at the W. Ridge of Conness: Part II – West Ridge of Mt. Conness (VonTrap Style!)