Sierra Trip Reports

Date: Saturday, July 24, 2010

Climbers: Colin & Nick

Photos: Nick (unless otherwise noted as Colin)

Weather: The forecast called for the dreaded “High Sierra 20% chance of thunderstorms after 11 A.M.” Therefore, based on past experience of watching the thunderheads develop along the Sierra Crest at a rapid speed, we knew that it was inevitable it was going to rain. Just call it a feeling.

Add in the fact that Cathedral Peak is essentially an overgrown granite lightening rod, we planned on a very early start with the goal towards descending before any storms hit. As noted below, we essentially satisfied the goal (although we were only 1/3rd of the climbers’ trail down when the lightening and hail hit…)

Synopsis: In my humble opinion, Cathedral Peak offers some of the best alpine rock climbing in Yosemite (if not one of the best moderate alpine routes in the country!). Such a great climb: (i) fun and scenic approach, (ii) good routes with plenty of alternate ascent options, (iii) a spectacular summit and (iv) amazing views.

Colin and I drove up from the Bay Area on Friday night and camped out in the Golden Arrow area. After an alpine wake-up and the remainder of the drive to Tuolumne Meadows, we were on the trail early and moving at a fast pace. I believe we made the approach from the car to the base in exactly one hour.

Our first full view of Cathedral Peak from the approach trail.

Further up the approach trail, we had to stop at least once for the full Cathedral Shot. Note: The bluebird skies of early morning. Photo: Colin

On the approach, as you hit around 9,000 ft, one is offered amazing views of the pristine alpine wilderness of Yosemite National Park.

During the approach, we had passed 3 other groups heading up. Despite our early start, there was already 2 parties on the rock ahead of us, and another group gearing up. Due to the overall “awesomeness” of Cathedral Peak, it does get crowded. Fortunately, there is an abundance of alternate climbing routes and belay ledges.

Nearing the base of the climb, Colin heads up. It was warming up quickly. Colin was beginning to complain about the bugs (as he does), but I frankly did not notice them.

Fortunately, we got on the original route (Route “A” from the SuperTopo Tuolumne Meadows Guidebook ) quickly, and were up at the 1st belay ledge and out of the way of the pestering mosquitoes.

Here, Colin displays the Blue Metolius Master Cam that I love to place, and for some reason, Colin hates to clean. I always seem to over-cam that one…

A picture of the leader from another party heading up one of the alternate routes between Pitch 1 and Pitch 2.

Did I mention the views during the climb? Simply put, they are continuously breathtaking. Cathedral Peak is essentially a natural, well, Cathedral, perched high up on the edge of the Sierra Crest, looking down over all of Tuolumne Meadows and the surrounding Sierra.

Here Colin follows between Pitch 1 and 2, with the edge of one of the Cathedral Lakes far below in the distance.

Here I am belaying in a comfortable spot at I believe what was our second belay ledge. Note, Lembert Dome off in the distance on the edge of Tuolumne Meadows. It is amazing how small Lembert looks from up here. For my dad, a little note that Lembert Dome is the rock formation that I took you hiking to the summit of when we visited Tuolumne Meadows several years ago. Photo: Colin

Here I am, taking in the view from the second belay ledge. Although the sky is still bluebird, this is around the time we were noting clouds forming well off in the distance. Time to get moving! Photo: Colin

Looking down at Budd Lake. Take note of this picture, as the skies will be wrecking havoc later in the day.

Nick leading up on the third pitch, with the Chimney pitch visible in the distance in the lower right of the picture (the chimney simply looks like a wide crack from this vantage). Photo: Colin

Here I am setting up a belay immediately below the Chimney. We waited to let a pair of simul-climbers pass quickly, and then I headed up the Chimney. Did I mention how great this climb is? The variety of the route alone is amazing. Photo: Colin

The picture above (of the belay ledge below the Chimney) is actually quite interesting, as the width of the Chimney is deceiving from that angle. Here I am actually in the Chimney for a frame of reference. Photo: Colin

Following the Chimney pitch, we had 2 more pitches to the summit. The formations up near the pinnacle summit are beautiful (with Cathedral Lakes down below).

Taking in the views from the belay ledge just below the summit (and also monitoring the weather). Photo: Colin

Here is a shot of Eichorn Pinnacle, with Cathedral Lakes in the distance.

The summit block itself is very small, and can only fit a couple of people. Upon reaching the summit, we spent a very short time (read: 2 minutes or so), before lowering Colin off. As you can see in this picture, the skies towards the Sierra Crest were darkening. That 20% was clearly shifting towards 100%.

Summit shot of me, clearly getting ready to take some quick photos before getting down. Tuolumne Meadows and the High Sierra in the distance.Photo: Colin

A special thanks to Scott from Yosemite Mountain School and Guide Service. He was up on the summit with me, and gave us some quick advice for a faster way to descend. I was originally going to belay Colin down the last 30 feet of the climb, and then have him belay me while I down-climbed. The “belay” would really only catch me if I fell past him. Upon Scott’s suggestion, I lowered Colin off the back, and then Colin Belayed me while I down climbed the upper portion, with the rope over the summit block. This provided a top rope from above. Although the down climb is straight forward, this was a very helpful suggestion from Scott.

Upon reaching the back, we started to hear distant thunderclaps, so our goal turned to navigating the third class down climb on the back quickly, but safely. The storm was still pretty far away, but I had no intention of being anywhere near the top in the event of lightening activity.

But first, some quick shots at the beginning of the down climb.

Funny, on this side of Cathedral, the sky was clear and it was a great day.

Meanwhile, on the other side, the dreaded “20% Chance” Thunderstorm rolls along the Sierra Crest. Once again, harping my belief that 20% in the High Sierra always ends up 100%. This was taken during our hike down the climbers’ descent trail next to Cathedral. We were really moving fast at this point, as the thunderclaps were beginning to intensify (but still pretty far off and no signs of lightening yet).

A shot of Cathedral Peak from the “notch” on the descent.

At the notch, although the clouds were really moving in, they were hugging the Crest and still no thunder or lightening close. However, in the distance (heading towards Conness), it was clearly dumping. Photo: Colin

Our goal at this point was to hit the base and head down the trail as quickly as possible. We discussed how awesome it would be to get to the car, pack and start the engine, exactly as the rain started dumping.

And we made it! Almost……

Around 1/3rd of the way down the trail, it finally started raining. Then the rain turned to hail. Heavy hail. The lightening was close at this point as well – fortunately we were in the forest on low ground with a heavy canopy. Another 25 minutes and we were at the car, with the rain stopping. Driving over by Olmstead Point, it was clear without even a sign of rain. Crazy.

One last shot on the descent trail, about 15 minutes before the hail started. Photo: Colin

All in all, an amazing climb on Cathedral Peak! Great weather when climbing an awesome route with spectacular views. Coupled with a safe descent and well timed exit-plan to avoid being up high during the storm. Colin and I both joked that the hail and rain during the last ½ of the hike was even fun as it washed off the bug spray and suntan lotion, obviating the need for a dip in Tenaya Lake!