Sierra Trip Reports

Location: Lover’s Leap, South Lake Tahoe

Date: Saturday, June 13, 2010

Climbers: Nick, Jon & Jon’s friend Rachel

Photos: Nick, Jon & Rachel

Weather: Amazing day, as usual. Clear skies, with a decent breeze. The morning started out pretty crisp (in the low 50s), but gradually warmed with the rising sun to around the low 70s.

Synopsis: Jon and I had plans to get up in San Fran at 4:00 AM and hit the road for the short drive up to South Lake Tahoe, and hit the smooth granite at the Leap. I had been up the weekend before with my buddy Brandon, and being desperately hung over, we climbed Pop Bottle (5.7) on the East Wall and Deception (5.7) on Hogsback.

On plenty of sleep and sans a hangover, Jon and I had more ambitious plans, which would largely be dictated by how crowded the Leap was. We wanted to try and climb the following combo:

1. Bear’s Reach (5.7) on the East Wall
2. East Wall (5.7) on, well, the East Wall
3. The Line (5.9) on, you guessed it, the East Wall
4. Surrealistic Pillar (5.7) on the Lower Buttress

On the drive to my apartment to pick me up, Jon said that his friend Rachel was supposed to climb up at the Leap as well, but her partner bailed. We had two ropes, so decided we would climb in a group of three.

Obviously this altered our original plan, but we still got on some great routes.

Arriving at the Leap around 7:30 AM, we promptly headed over to the East Wall. The East Wall is considered by many to be one of the moderate trad-climbing paradises of the country. With around 20 classic multi-pitch routes (generally 3 pitches, 300′-400′ feet), there are quite a few options to choose from.

The East Wall, still cold, but inviting, in the early morning:

At the base of the East Wall, there was already one party on The Line, so we decided to get on Bear’s Reach.

Bear’s Reach

Bear’s Reach (5.7) is a three-pitch, approximately 400′ climb. As stated in the SuperTopo guidebook:

“This must-do climb offers more than a few memorable face and crack moves. The name comes from the second pitch crux where, depending on your height, you must make a huge “Bear’s Reach” between two large holds. The first half of the climb links together a variety of short cracks with face moves while the second half follows a series of corners.”

I took lead the first two pitches, and Jon lead the third (as a warm-up for The Line). Starting off on the first pitch:

Fun to play with the exposure and saturation.

Looking down at Jon following and cleaning the gear from the first pitch:

Jon looking up at Rachel and me at the 1st belay ledge:

Here I am, at the actual “Bear’s Reach.” Note: If you are 6’3″, it isn’t as much of a “reach” as it is more of a “did I miss the crux?” I can see how it would be more challenging for shorter folks (although Rachel didn’t have any issues either).

Regardless, Bear’s Reach is really fun, sustained flake and crack climbing for 400 vertical feet. Here Jon is leading out the third pitch:

Jon high up on the route:

Here I am following and cleaning on the third pitch:

Great camera posing face by yours truly! Earn it!

The Line

After Bear’s Reach, we hiked the descent trail back to the base of the East Wall, and noticed there was only one party getting ready to head up The Line.

The Line (5.9) is one of the most popular climbs at Lover’s Leap. As stated in the SuperTopo guidebook:

“The Line is the most popular and striking route at Lover’s Leap. The name says it all: the climb follows a plumb line up the center of the East Wall that would not be possible to miss. The name also speaks to the three or more climbers you will have to wait behind before starting. The Line offers a delicious mixture of lieback, stem, and face moves with the occasional straight-in jam.”

The guidebook goes on to note that “Royal Robbins describes the first pitch as “the best pitch at The Leap, and one of the ten best pitches I have done anywhere.”

Therefore, we went over and got our gear ready. Rachel decided to sit this climb out, but she was able to get some cool shots of the climb from far away.

Here is a macro of The Line. You can barely make out a party at the 1st hanging belay ledge in mid-picture.

From further away, showing the more prominent feature of the climb:

Jon lead all three pitches, as the climb was definitely outside my ability/comfort zone for lead climbing. Was super pumped that Jon lead it, as it had been on his “list” for a while and I can tell he was really pumped to be on it and cruising along.

At the end, The Line was certainly one of the more memorable and great climbs I have done in a while.

Jon starting off on the first pitch:

After placing some pro, the crux of the climb is actually just 20 feet off the ground – but it is a little run-out and requires some strong moves. Like I said, a really fun climb.

The climbing is also cool as you don’t really climb the crack itself – you are actually up to the side climbing the horizontal dikes and using the edge of the face. But, you do need to lean down and place pro back in the crack itself.

Sequence of Jon getting high-up and exposed, but only on the first pitch! The Line continues like this for another 200-300′ – sustained 5.9 climbing.

Here I start off following and cleaning the 1st pitch:

Working near the crux:

Jon and me at the 2nd belay ledge – pumped to be climbing such a classic route. Note: No idea what is going on with the coloring in this picture – it is from Jon’s camera!

Picture of me getting ready to belay Jon up the 3rd pitch of The Line – a nice 5.8 roof with tons of exposure below you:

Gearing up with the tools of the trade:

Looking over at the top of Main Wall from the summit of the East Wall:

We finished the day on Hogwild (5.7), a nice single-pitch trad and bolted slab climb. I took the lead – it was definitely a little run out at times, but still a fun climb.

Another great day at The Leap: