Sierra Trip Reports

Dates: Saturday, June 26 – Sunday, Jun 27

Climbers: Nick & Colin

Photos: Nick & Colin (as noted)

Weather: Both Saturday and Sunday were absolutely gorgeous. Highs in the mid-60s, lows in the upper 40s. Interestingly, on the drive back to the Bay Area on Sunday evening, we saw some massive thunderheads growing up by Sonora Pass. Given the temps of 102 in the Central Valley, this was not particularly surprising. Notwithstanding the crazy warm temps at lower elevations, Tuolumne was super pleasant.

Synopsis: With a spell of warm weather recently and after some beta received re: approach conditions on SuperTopo, it seemed as if the climbs around Tuolumne were drying and the snow was melting. Colin and I decided to head up and climb some moderate multi-pitch dome routes. All in all, there is still a good amount of snow on many of the larger alpine routes (e.g., Mt. Conness, North Peak, Tenaya), but the lower domes in and around Tuolumne were *relatively* dry (except for Dozier Dome – more on that later) with snowless approaches.

We drove up Friday night from the Bay Area and camped just outside Yosemite. It was a good night, nice and cool without too many bugs.

Upon the drive up to the 8,000 ft. + elevations of Tuolumne Meadows, we were greeted to (i) snowy peaks of the High Sierra in the distance and (ii) the Meadows virtually overflowing with water from the melt of what has been a massive snow year for the Eastern Sierra.

Here, early morning lenticulars form off around Conness and North Peak. Photo: Nick

Tuolumne Meadows of Yosemite National Park, with the Tuolumne River overflowing. Photo: Nick

After some deliberation and consulting the SuperTopo Tuolumne Free Climbs Guidebook, we decided to head back to Dozier Dome to climb Holdless Horror (5.6). The weekend was to be marked by moderate dome climbing as we anticipated wet routes and Colin was coming back for his first day over outdoor climbing in over a year since a serious skiing accident while tele-skiing last year.

Post surgery, Colin (a/k/a the “Terminator”) tends to set off the wand metal detectors of the TSA. Photo: Tahoe Donner Forest Radiology Staff 😉

In all seriousness, I could tell Colin was pumped to be back outside climbing, although he said he definitely still needs to hit PT because his ankle range of motion is still pretty slight. Makes slab climbing pretty difficult.

So on that note, we decided to head slab climbing!

Holdless Horror (5.6) – Dozier Dome, Tuolumne Meadows

Holdless Horror on Dozier Dome is a 400 ft., four-pitch classic slab climb in Tuolumne. Contrary to the name, I can assure there are holds (as the entire climb essentially follows a single and double crack system). Really, you stem climb the face around the crack, though (especially when wet!).

Because Dozier Dome is off the road and pretty shaded, we assumed the approach was going to have some snow still. We were correct. Here I am just after the river crossing, hitting snow patches. As we went up, the amount of snow increased: Photo: Colin

The base of the route had a good amount of snow right up to the start of the fifth-class climbing. Nothing like an “alpine-esq.” approach for end of June climbing! Photo: Nick

It even came with a nice bergshrund 😉 Photo: Colin

In all seriousness, Holdless Horror was very wet. Well, at least the crack system running up the route was. It was very wet for the first couple of pitches. Fortunately, the climb is really stemming on the face outside the crack, but using the crack for placing pro.

Given that we hiked back there and I was feeling up to it for leading, we decided that I would start out on the *hope* that after the 1st pitch or so it would dry out. Ultimately, it did dry out after about 2 pitches. When deciding while water flowed down the base of the route, our thought process (read: justification for going up) was something like: “well, at least it will be good training for big alpine climbs”. Nothing like seamless justification!

Starting off the lead at the base. While the face on either side was relatively dry, I can assure you where I am standing is soaking wet in there. Photo: Colin

Fortunately, as we got up, the climb dried a bit. For a while there, it would be awkward b/c as I would place pro, my hands would get soaked and if I lodged a foot in the crack, the shoe would then be soaked and not gain any purchase on the slab on the outside. Definitely some spicy moments – but really made it fun! Photo: Colin

A nice view from about the 3rd pitch over towards Tenaya Lake, with Tenaya Peak in the upper left. Photo: Nick

Looking North towards the Meadows and Yosemite High Country. Photo: Nick

Colin following up around pitch 2 when the crack finally started to dry out. Photo: Nick

Although the climb was wet for the first ½, it was still a very fun climb and I would highly recommend it (especially once it dries completely). Easy climbing, great views and solid pro.

Looking over towards Tenaya Peak from the top of the climb. Tenaya definitely still has at least a couple of weeks until it the Northwest Buttress goes (as there is a ton of snow on it still –see later below). Photo: Colin

Colin topping out, with Tenaya Lake in the distance. I can’t tell if he is happy to be climbing again or not. Poker face. Photo: Nick

Yours truly, taking in the views and already thinking about Bison Meatloaf at Whoa Nellie Deli. Photo: Colin

After four pitches and a nice lunch up at the top, we raped back down to the base to hike out in the wet snow. Photo: Colin

Fortunately, we were able to spot a better descent to the car to avoid the snow while on the top. Here, I take in the view of Medlicott Dome in the distance. Photo: Colin

Medlicott Dome is definitely on the hit list for this summer. Photo: Colin

Creek crossing back to the car. Photo: Colin

The climb took us much longer than expected given that it was very wet, it was our first time climbing together for the season and Colin’s ankle was bothering him the entire climb. We got back to the car and debated climbing some single-pitch routes or Northwest Books on Lembert Dome, but decided to call it a day and give Colin a chance to recharge the ankle for the next day.

So we headed to the Whoa Nelli Deli to for some amazing Bison Meatloaf and Jambalaya.

Zee Line (5.7) – Pywiack Dome, Tuolumne Meadows

After the great meal and a good night camping out (note: Tuolumne Meadows campground is still closed, so we camped out down on the Eastside), we headed back to the Meadows towards Pywiack Dome.

While Dana Plateua is essentially done for bc-skiing, the Third Pillar of Dana (looking like a ship’s prow) is calling all of you alpine trad climbers that have that certain something to lead 5.10b trad. Photo: Colin

Meanwhile, the West Ridge of Conness (and, while not pictured, North Peak) still have a TON of snow on them. Seems they won’t go for a while climbing, but this certaintly makes me want to head up to Saddlebag and get in a couple more days of bc-skiing on what has been an amazing year. Photo: Colin

Unlike Dozier Dome, we knew Pywiack Dome (and Zee Line in particular) were dry and get sun really quickly. Nothing like a 2 minute approach from the car!

Here, Dozier Dome greats us first thing Sunday morning. Photo: Colin

Zee Line is a well bolted, 4-5 pitch 5.7 on Pywiack Dome. After about 200 feet of unprotected 4th/5.0 class, there is 3-pitches of bolted slab climbing. At that point, you have the choice to rap down, or continue on for 2 more pitches of slab/crack climbing up until a monster ledge that is shared with Dike Route. From there, you can climb the 5.7 lieback crack to the summit and walk off, or head over to the rap station at the top of Dike Route and take 4 raps to the bottom.

Zee line travels up a near-straight line above the third tree (left to right) towards the tiny tree in the middle of the face, then starts to lead left to the dark-shaded ledge on the right-ish side of the blocky-roof. Photo: Colin

Knowing that the last pitch required a third-class walk-off and Colin’s ankle had been bothering him on the slab from the prior day, we brought two ropes to have the flexibility to rap. While the 5.7 last short pitch looked awesome, we ended up rapping down to avoid the walk-off. We plan on going back and climbing Dike Route regardless, we will be able to climb that last pitch next time.

“Nice Marmot.” – The Dude

“Also, let’s not forget… let’s not forget, Dude… that keeping wildlife, an amphibious rodent, for uh, domestic, you know, within the city – that ain’t legal either.” – Walter Sobchak

Gearing up for the climb, with Tenaya in the background. Photo: Colin

Nick leading the second pitch of Zee Line. Dome climbing in Tuolumne really brings me back to slab climbing at Looking Glass Rock in North Carolina as a kid (well, sans the horizontal eyelet cracks of Looking Glass). Photo: Colin

Another party across the way, gearing up on Mountaineers Dome. Photo: Colin

Tenaya Peak, still with a lot of snow on the Northwest Buttress. Photo: Colin

Colin closing out the day at the 5th pitch belay ledge.